After a week in another big city, we were seeking some peace to end our travels and found just that in the delightful mountain town of Chiang Dao, an hour and a half north of Chiang Mai.
This lush village is situated at the base of the striking Doi Dao mountain, creating stunning views from just about anywhere. Given its rural character, it’s hard to believe 80,000 people call the region home.
Motorbike
We rented another bike out here as the roads are much quieter than the big city. It’s very freeing to get to ride the bike around the mountains.
Our route passed through tall trees, winding curves, babbling brooks, and of course temples scattered across the city. This was the first time we got caught in the rain while riding. A couple times actually. The last ended in me getting entirely soaked before we arrived at our destination. Most of the time we had ponchos or were already arriving at our destination by the time the rain started really coming down. The mountain storms would roll in as quickly as they rolled out. Just a daily feature of the region.
Cave Exploration
Of course we had to explore the area’s most famous attraction: Chiang Dao Cave. In addition to a self-guided well-lit area housing a reclining Buddha and other religious sculptures, this cave has many dark expanses that can only be explored by gas lantern with a guide.
Not sure what we were getting ourselves into, we carefully stepped down into pitch black darkness with frequent reminders to “mind our head” and keep an eye out for “slippery” rocks. Alternating between tight passageways and wide open caverns, we were surprised by the amount of life living without light: countless bat colonies, a seemingly infinite supply of crickets to feed them, and freaky large spiders. This cave was filled with an abundance of rock formations that the guide described to look like animals such as elephants, camels and chickens.
The experience is very different from American parks and Chris definitely enjoyed the opportunity to touch the cave walls and even make some music.
Ashi Guesthouse
We stayed in a beautiful accommodation with screened, open air windows and a single mounted fan. Okay, this may not sound like luxury but it’s all you need in an area like this since the rain keeps temps cool and comfortable.
Our hosts were the highlight of this stay. The proprietor, Oy, who runs the place with her boyfriend and mom, treated guests to a saxophone concert over dinner — which of course, turned into Chris taking the guitar off the wall for a group jam session. Over the few days we stayed, Oy shared how she had restored the guesthouse from its original owner: polishing hardwood, rebuilding railings, and landscaping the entire property. They added additional units after COVID and a restaurant / cafe two years ago, having just celebrated the business’ 8th anniversary.
Medical Moments
Do not panic, parents, when you read this because we are both just fine 🙂
Chris got a head start on his Harry Potter Halloween costume when he accidentally bumped his head at a riverside coffee stop along the river. It’s healing really well!
Lexi also had a skin reaction to the local sulfur hot springs. When it didn’t clear up on its own, we stopped into the local clinic. Health care is extremely efficient out here with numbered stations for health records, vitals, doctor examination, nurse administration, pharmacy, and cashier — and two shots + a five day medication course came in at under $10 USD! All while completing the visit in less than 2 hours. 🙏🏻
A Moment for the Food
And A Moment for the People
We also visited a great art space hosting a photography exhibit that featured prominent members of the local community. The artist wanted to highlight every day life in a region often single-handedly known for mountain tourism.
We’re on the tail end of our trip, spending a bit of time in Chiang Mai before catching the night train back to Bangkok and heading home.
With love
C & L
Sunrise Owls 
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